Alone with Mona Lisa

We’re visiting Zhouzhuang (周庄) near Suzhou. It’s a 5A attraction so I know I’m warned about the crowds, but on photos, it does look like a very nice Watertown, with original old buildings rather than cheap recreations. The historical village center is a gated off area, with hotels and restaurants build around it. The entrance […]

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Feeding turtles

We’re visiting Dahong Village (大洪村), on the outskirts of Shanghai. The village belongs to Chuansha (川沙) in Pudong, but it’s its own entity — although soon to be swallowed up by new constructions. On Xiaohongshu, we found some photos of the Wu Family’s Old House (吴家老宅), and usually, that means there are more old buildings […]

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Immigration Area

As we start our little walk in Xiasha (下沙镇), a shushu standing in a doorway warns us it’s not as interesting here as it looks on Douyin: “Maybe in the 70s or 80s it was pretty here. But not anymore.” He uses the word 蹩脚, which means rubbish in Shanghai-hua: “Now, only the residential area […]

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A bubble in Suzhou

Lishu Village (蠡墅镇) in Suzhou is several hundred years old, although rumours of its name trace back two millennia. Warlords and rich merchants used to live here, their houses and courtyards built by eunichs, their money and trade earned in Suzhou. I don’t think this place has the refined attraction of Suzhou water towns like […]

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The village within the city

杨思镇 (Yangsi Town) is described as a ‘城中村’ (a village within the city) and it’s an apt description. It’s an oddly shaped block of old and low, rickety buildings — on the east side of the Huangpu in Shanghai’s Pudong district, hunched against the small Yangsigang River (杨思港). Once you enter the area, you really […]

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What I’ve learned from living in China for seven years

I am not sure, which or who changes faster; cities or people. Cities never change all at once, but rather block by block. This is how cities keep their character, although they constantly evolve. And maybe people aren’t so different. People say Shanghai changes so fast, but its DNA hasn’t changed in over 150 years. […]

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Hustle and bustle

The hustle and bustle (烟火气) at this market in Chuansha (十八铺菜市场). One of my favorite places in Shanghai. Here are photos from a year ago, and here from half a year ago. Going home with a ton of vegetables and a cow-tongue biscuit (牛舌饼).

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My Chinese learning journey (update March 2025)

In the summer of 2018, I moved to Shanghai and back then I only planned to stay maybe two years in China, so I didn’t consider it necessary to learn Chinese. In Shanghai, it’s OK to get by without speaking Mandarin. You either point at pictures or show the translated sentence on your phone. For […]

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New Harbor Market Town

We’re in a little town in Shanghai’s Pudong district, named 新港集镇 — which translates to something like New Harbor Market Town. It’s just a collection of houses, but this — and the 28°C weather — is all we need. It’s so quiet here, a rare thing in Shanghai. It’s as if everybody whispers, not to […]

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One Step Garden

The best thing to come out of Shanghai’s coffee boom is 一尺花园 (One Step Garden). Their restaurants/coffee stores are always housed in well-preserved old buildings with fantastic interior design, like this old kiln in Nanhui (南汇). (The weather doesn’t help taking pictures.) Or this one in Gaoqiao (高桥古镇): This one in Qingxi Ancient Town (青溪古镇): […]

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