Shishecun: An old village, a river, trees

Today brings us to Shishecun (石舍村) in Zhejiang. We’re here after a tip from Ash, but we’re not the only non-locals — despite this place not being on Dianping. There’s an attraction to off-the-beaten path locations, especially during the last days of the Spring Holiday break. And Shishecun is beautiful. Some buildings here were built […]

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A thousand islands, a million tourists

The crowds at Qiandao Lake (千岛湖, literally meaning ‘Thousand Islands Lake’) today. We sit on the boat, and over the intercom we get some background of the human-made lake, but people only start paying attention when the lady introduces lunch options and prices. A shushu proudly says his daughter studies in Germany, and opens his […]

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Hui architecture and Hello’s

We’re in Jiangwan (江湾) in the Jiangxi province. “Ayi, why don’t you use a laundry machine?” “This water is free.” “It’s not cold?” “We got used to it.” We drive up a random mountain with a nameless road (the map shows 无名道路). All the houses are built with white walls and black tiles; the Hui […]

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Villages above the clouds in Zhejiang

We visited two villages today, Chenjiapu (陈家铺) and Xikeng (西坑). Both are north of Songyang (松阳) and ‘touristified’ (for instance, Chenjiapu has a ‘design’ hotel & book store), but you can still see the original village in between the cafes & hotels, with lots of houses made of rammed earth (夯土). Chenjiapu (陈家铺) The freedom […]

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Our world without plans

A five-hundred-kilometer drive to Yunhe (云和县) today. Very little traffic, the only real ‘traffic jam’ recharging near Jinhua (金华). Following a friend’s advice: “Don’t eat anything at these rest stations, on the road you don’t want an upset stomach (拉肚子).” Famous Jinhua ham (金华火腿) is on sale here too. We drove to the famous Yunhe […]

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Snow in Nanxiang

Snow in Nanxiang (南翔镇), an over thousand-year-old town in northwest Shanghai, home to the xiaolongbao (小笼包). So of course we have some. (Plus fried xiaolongbao, first time seeing that. Had an American restaurant done this to xiaolongbao it’d be blasphemy, but this was from a 120-year-old local restaurant.) Only a single city block remains of […]

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The broken place

I wanted to go to the old village of Hengmian (横沔古镇) in Shanghai Pudong, but couldn’t really find it. Still a nice walk along old buildings, gardening plots, highways, and power lines. These buildings will be gone in a decade, driven out by modernization. I think these places are infinitely more interesting than modern high-rises […]

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Christmas card

A Christmas card addressed to me has arrived at my parent’s home, to go into a box with other envelopes. My mom told me about that box. I’ve never seen it, but I can feel its existence, nine thousand kilometers away. One mourning card and two birth cards are in it too, like a parallel […]

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Crab shell yellow

So these sesame buns are called 蟹壳黄(Crab shell yellow), not because there’s any crab in it, but because it looks like a crab shell. Plenty of food to try in Xinchangzhen (新场镇), Shanghai Pudong.   The scene: English homework, made years ago (book shows it was published in 1996);

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