Pancakes at the crossroads

It’s Saturday night and I just threw away the garbage because the shushu leaves at eight and takes the bins with him. I cross the bridge next to our compound and on the crossroads are five or six food stands. They sell fried chunks of meat, cold noodles, jianbing, corn sticks, and cold draft beer. All on the back of some cart pulled by an electric three-wheeler. I don’t want to buy any of this; ⁠I don’t trust my stomach with the streetside food, and I haven’t drunk alcohol for five years now.

And I know these aren’t massive adventures, but I do love this atmosphere. People come and go, satisfied with simple meals underneath these trees. And the next time I’m at this crossroad, something has changed, and you don’t see that with franchised shopping malls. In Chuansha, all these individual businesses bring a variety, while chains like Starbucks and KFC are focused on consistency. So at the roastery, you get whatever freshly roasted nuts are on the schedule. You can eat Xinjiang barbeque on flimsy plastic chairs. And I bought a book that’s obviously an illegal printed-out version of an e-book, but that’s the brilliance of it.

I’m not against modernisation but I am all for variety. ⁠This is what the three guys from Top Gear talk about when they speak of their love of cars like Alfa Romeos. It may break down a lot, more often than a reliable German car, but a car can have character. But only when it has flaws. I turn the corner and go to the supermarket, and there’s a pig at the entrance, and I hear some other visitors saying it has grown a lot since last time.

Latest

A summer’s day in autumn

A summer’s day in autumn

Set an alarm to 05:00, take a taxi to the train station, get onto the train, switch in Hangzhou, and get off in Tonglu (桐庐), take another taxi — to arrive 4 hours and 330 kilometers away from home. For a hike. Maybe it’s crazy, but the alternative is to stay home. You’ll have plenty […]
October 12, 2025
Mary in Qibao

Mary in Qibao

We’re in Qibao (七宝古镇) — an old water town swallowed by the city of Shanghai, now turned into a tourist attraction. In the center stands a moon bridge, surrounded by heavily renovated buildings that now house shops selling fridge magnets or bites such as ⁠tangyuan, scallion pancakes, red bean cake, and parts of pork or […]
October 11, 2025
Empty shops

Empty shops

If you squint your eyes, you can still see a busy little street here. The shops on Wangxin Road (王新街店铺) near Gaoqiao (高桥) in Pudong, were built in the late Qing Dynasty but now face an uncertain future. They’re not labeled for demolition (the character 拆 isn’t shown), but there are many tags of landlords […]
October 11, 2025
My favorite places in Shanghai (2025 update)

My favorite places in Shanghai (2025 update)

I saw this message from Curt about how difficult it is to love Shanghai, and there’s some truth in that. Maybe it’s too big a city to love, and I just love some specific locations of Shanghai. Let me have a go. Ye Garden Ye Garden (叶家花园), a ~100-year-old park in Yangpu, hidden behind a […]
October 10, 2025