Tiramisu in Changshu

I have a deep gratitude for each Mandarin teacher who has taught me — and in many cases, I also feel attached to their hometowns, as those are often discussed when practicing new phrases — back and forth. Even more so with Clytie, because she filmed her hometown Changshu (常熟) nearly three years ago. Ever since seeing that video, I have wanted to visit those places. And perhaps the way I see Clytie also extends to how I see the city. Because in my mind, Changshu is a friendly, peaceful and well-organized oasis just near frantic Shanghai.

So today I took the day off to recover from working 15 days straight, to move my legs and rest my tired heart. I boarded the early train and fifty minutes later arrived in Changshu — to visit the locations in Clytie’s video. I saw Fang Tower (方塔), which reminded me of the Wanshou Tower (万寿塔) in Jiading. The tower stands in a neat park with limestone in all kinds of shapes (probably from Lake Taihu (太湖), and is surrounded by old alleys with seniors still living there, I visited Yushan (虞山), to see the tomb of Yan Yan (言子), one of Confucius’ students, as well as the pavilion on the peak. And I saw Shang Lake (尚湖) and its red-leafed trees.

I had originally planned to eat tiramisu today, because it’s my go-to comfort food. Its name comes from “Tireme su” (“Lift me up”), and if that little blessing won’t cheer me up, then mascarpone and cacao will. But I found none today — instead, I came across ‘Yushan pine mushroom noodles’ (虞山蕈油面). Like tiramisu, it’s not an easy recipe. The mushrooms are peeled, rinsed, stir-fried, and then seasoned. I didn’t know mushrooms could taste like that, almost like a type of beef. But well, was it the mushrooms or the city? Anyhow, I’m in a much better mood now.

Latest

Half a Jin, Eight Liang

Half a Jin, Eight Liang

Learning Chinese, or any language, makes you more aware of language in general. And one thing that surprised me is that, despite Mandarin being so different from my mother tongue (Dutch), both languages reach for the same units when weighing things: the kilogram (公斤, gōngjīn) and the half-kilogram (斤, jīn). It’s a small thing, but […]
June 24, 2026
Cake and Timepieces

Cake and Timepieces

There are multiple ways to define Shanghai. There’s the more modern version, with beautiful lanes full of expensive yoga studios or artisan coffee shops, lined with the London Plane Tree (法国梧桐) and the Wukang Mansion (武康大楼), and renovated parks like the North Bund (北外滩) and West Bund (西岸). There’s also the Shanghai as the international […]
June 23, 2026
A candle in Minnesota

A candle in Minnesota

It’s Wednesday morning, and I’m in Saint Paul, Minnesota, attending the morning mass at St. Bernard’s church. It’s about twenty years since I last attended a mass, and the first time I’ve ever done so voluntarily. I’m sure I’m drawn to this church near my Airbnb, compelled to go in, but I find it hard […]
June 14, 2026
Revisiting Columbine

Revisiting Columbine

Growing up in the Netherlands, it’s not immediately obvious (even to myself) that the history of the United States is also partly mine, but through TV series and movies — as well as the news — it’s also a country I lived in and grew up in. And unlike presidential elections or the September 11th […]
June 8, 2026