New Harbor Market Town

We’re in a little town in Shanghai’s Pudong district, named 新港集镇 — which translates to something like New Harbor Market Town. It’s just a collection of houses, but this — and the 28°C weather — is all we need. It’s so quiet here, a rare thing in Shanghai. It’s as if everybody whispers, not to wake the clothes that are hung to dry. Even the dogs are silent.

The people who still live here are either seniors who lived here their whole life, taking care of a grandchild — or lowly paid migrant workers. Eva: “I don’t think they’re from South Jiangsu (苏南人), let alone from Zhejiang (浙江人). They wouldn’t agree to such living conditions. Many of them will have three-wheeled food stalls (摆摊).”

Some of the houses are in rough shape. There are lots of signs — graffiti or handwritten — of empty houses looking for renters. Some have a ‘拆’ (Tear down) sign on them, others have fixed their leaking roof by just installing a new roof on top of their old one.

Latest

Thirty kilometers out

Thirty kilometers out

When I moved out of Shanghai’s city center, the differences were obvious to me, but now three years later I start to see the similarities again. The area in Shanghai that we live in now — the border of Heqing (合庆) and Tangzhen (唐镇) — is full of non-Shanghainese people. Many come from lower-tier cities in […]
December 15, 2025
Ways to harmony

Ways to harmony

In Shanghai, cars, scooters, or bicycles in public are exposed to the impulses of opportunistic advertisers. So while you’re asleep or at work, they may place cards or stickers — fancy designs promoting services ranging from fake diplomas to ladies of not-so-virtuous nature, as well as housing funds. I’ve been annoyed dozens of times by […]
December 8, 2025
The Return of Magic

The Return of Magic

My first time in an airplane was in some Cessna 25 years ago. I had never imagined I’d ever sit in a plane, because that was something for rich people. But then after our visit to Legoland in Denmark, my dad decided we’d see the park from above. The whole was so inconceivable, not just […]
November 11, 2025
Toilet Egg Pancake

Toilet Egg Pancake

Sometimes a place or thing becomes super memorable not despite its odd name, but because of it. In Kunshan (昆山) there’s a place that sells ‘Toilet Egg Pancake’ (厕所蛋饼), because their original store was next to a public toilet. It has already moved on, but the name remains. While their pancakes are so good (and […]
November 10, 2025