More than any city I’ve lived in, Shanghai unfolds the longer you stay in it — like reading the book for a second or third time. I keep returning to old spots and seeing new layers — literally — on the ground or ten floors above the streets. I now speak the language and I’m no longer the freshman that told the taxi driver to stop because he thought he was being scammed. That was in 2017, and the car stopped on the opposing shore in this photo.