Searching for private space

After a dinner in rural Zhejiang, we walked to our guesthouse and we looked at the stars. And when you haven’t consciously seen the stars for over a year, well, — they look amazing. But in Shanghai, stars are largely invisible, drowned out by the light the city produces. For all of Shanghai’s amenities, ⁠it’s these non-materialistic things like privacy that are the hardest to get by, like darkness and silence.

It’s crowded everywhere you go in Shanghai. There aren’t any real forests, and parks — especially on sunny days — are full of people. ⁠⁠You queue to park at the shopping mall, you queue to take the elevator, and you queue to eat at a restaurant. It’s crowded in convenience stores, on escalators, on the subway — and for most people, it’s even crowded at home.

Apartments in Chinese cities are small and usually several generations live together. Offices use open floors. On the weekends, you see many people gaming in the coffee store or on a bench outside, just to be away from home and family members. And during lunch breaks, people use empty meeting rooms to be alone, or game or sleep in their parked cars.

⁠The most lawless of these ‘private spaces’ is the toilet. They provide a seat and a way to lock the door and literally shut the world outside. In shopping malls or offices, you can hear videos or games being played behind stall doors, with the smell of cigarettes. Smoking isn’t allowed in office buildings or shopping malls, but on toilets you can smoke as your heart wishes without consequences, protected by anonymity from the stall door.

Latest

A summer’s day in autumn

A summer’s day in autumn

Set an alarm to 05:00, take a taxi to the train station, get onto the train, switch in Hangzhou, and get off in Tonglu (桐庐), take another taxi — to arrive 4 hours and 330 kilometers away from home. For a hike. Maybe it’s crazy, but the alternative is to stay home. You’ll have plenty […]
October 12, 2025
Mary in Qibao

Mary in Qibao

We’re in Qibao (七宝古镇) — an old water town swallowed by the city of Shanghai, now turned into a tourist attraction. In the center stands a moon bridge, surrounded by heavily renovated buildings that now house shops selling fridge magnets or bites such as ⁠tangyuan, scallion pancakes, red bean cake, and parts of pork or […]
October 11, 2025
Empty shops

Empty shops

If you squint your eyes, you can still see a busy little street here. The shops on Wangxin Road (王新街店铺) near Gaoqiao (高桥) in Pudong, were built in the late Qing Dynasty but now face an uncertain future. They’re not labeled for demolition (the character 拆 isn’t shown), but there are many tags of landlords […]
October 11, 2025
My favorite places in Shanghai (2025 update)

My favorite places in Shanghai (2025 update)

I saw this message from Curt about how difficult it is to love Shanghai, and there’s some truth in that. Maybe it’s too big a city to love, and I just love some specific locations of Shanghai. Let me have a go. Ye Garden Ye Garden (叶家花园), a ~100-year-old park in Yangpu, hidden behind a […]
October 10, 2025