Searching for a wall

We walked the entire circumference of the old city wall (South-, West-, North- and East Gate Road), but found not a single brick or remnant — except for names and roads that still follow its former shape: a square around the city of Chengqiao Town (城桥镇).

Actually, Chengqiao is still often called South Gate (南门) because before the bridge to Shanghai was built, boats leaving from its port (at the south gate of its old city wall) were the main way to get to Shanghai. And thus the whole of Chongming Island would say they’d go and depart from South Gate, which became synonymous with the town of Chengqiao.

The city wall is no more but the name remains. And like many city walls, this one also left an impression on the map long after it’s gone. (So too in the city center of Shanghai).

This for instance is the former north wall.

And we ‘collected’ all four streets:

 

In a nearby temple/museum, there are old photos of the wall and gates, as well as maps, and some old bricks. I just wish more remained outside, at its original place.

An old article also mentions that the old dike is still visible west of the South Gate harbor. Is it this one? Not sure.

The same article also shows a picture of 太平路 (Taiping Road), not so far away — so we had to take a look there. It’s actually a neighborhood with rickety houses, most patched up by a layer of concrete, either to stabilize or help with insolation.

Some protected buildings in the little alley, although I’ve no idea who they are: Huang Echen’s former residence (黄谔臣旧居) & Huang Guozhen’s former residence (黄国桢旧居).

The same shot from the article, 4 years and 2 days later.

In the end, we didn’t find any wall, but it was always just an excuse to walk and walk. Chongming Island is always nice, and we went home with a ten-kilo bag of freshly milled rice.

Latest

A summer’s day in autumn

A summer’s day in autumn

Set an alarm to 05:00, take a taxi to the train station, get onto the train, switch in Hangzhou, and get off in Tonglu (桐庐), take another taxi — to arrive 4 hours and 330 kilometers away from home. For a hike. Maybe it’s crazy, but the alternative is to stay home. You’ll have plenty […]
October 12, 2025
Mary in Qibao

Mary in Qibao

We’re in Qibao (七宝古镇) — an old water town swallowed by the city of Shanghai, now turned into a tourist attraction. In the center stands a moon bridge, surrounded by heavily renovated buildings that now house shops selling fridge magnets or bites such as ⁠tangyuan, scallion pancakes, red bean cake, and parts of pork or […]
October 11, 2025
Empty shops

Empty shops

If you squint your eyes, you can still see a busy little street here. The shops on Wangxin Road (王新街店铺) near Gaoqiao (高桥) in Pudong, were built in the late Qing Dynasty but now face an uncertain future. They’re not labeled for demolition (the character 拆 isn’t shown), but there are many tags of landlords […]
October 11, 2025
My favorite places in Shanghai (2025 update)

My favorite places in Shanghai (2025 update)

I saw this message from Curt about how difficult it is to love Shanghai, and there’s some truth in that. Maybe it’s too big a city to love, and I just love some specific locations of Shanghai. Let me have a go. Ye Garden Ye Garden (叶家花园), a ~100-year-old park in Yangpu, hidden behind a […]
October 10, 2025