Cruisers & cargo ships

In Amsterdam’s busiest shopping street is a big wooden door that opens into a corridor which leads into a church. Few shoppers notice the door, let alone pass it. But the transition is wonderful: you go from a crowded street, a cacophony, into the silence of a church, and leave the shopping street behind, if only for a moment.

To me the Northbund in Shanghai is similar, in that it lets you escape the city for a while. Behind the running path is a park from which you descend the stairs to the dock. There’s the mumbling of people as they take selfies of the Pudong skyscrapers, and the whistle of a police officer when somebody steps onto the grass. But most audible are the diesel engines of the cargo and cruise ships on the Huangpu river, which produce a soft droning sound that drowns out all the rest.

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A summer’s day in autumn

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Mary in Qibao

Mary in Qibao

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Empty shops

Empty shops

If you squint your eyes, you can still see a busy little street here. The shops on Wangxin Road (王新街店铺) near Gaoqiao (高桥) in Pudong, were built in the late Qing Dynasty but now face an uncertain future. They’re not labeled for demolition (the character 拆 isn’t shown), but there are many tags of landlords […]
October 11, 2025
My favorite places in Shanghai (2025 update)

My favorite places in Shanghai (2025 update)

I saw this message from Curt about how difficult it is to love Shanghai, and there’s some truth in that. Maybe it’s too big a city to love, and I just love some specific locations of Shanghai. Let me have a go. Ye Garden Ye Garden (叶家花园), a ~100-year-old park in Yangpu, hidden behind a […]
October 10, 2025