Cruisers & cargo ships

In Amsterdam’s busiest shopping street is a big wooden door that opens into a corridor which leads into a church. Few shoppers notice the door, let alone pass it. But the transition is wonderful: you go from a crowded street, a cacophony, into the silence of a church, and leave the shopping street behind, if only for a moment.

To me the Northbund in Shanghai is similar, in that it lets you escape the city for a while. Behind the running path is a park from which you descend the stairs to the dock. There’s the mumbling of people as they take selfies of the Pudong skyscrapers, and the whistle of a police officer when somebody steps onto the grass. But most audible are the diesel engines of the cargo and cruise ships on the Huangpu river, which produce a soft droning sound that drowns out all the rest.

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Secret Listening #6

Secret Listening #6

This series is called ‘Secret Listening’, from the Chinese word 偷听Tōutīng. I know this can be — and should probably be — translated as ‘eavesdropping’, but secret listening captures it better and adds a bit of jest. These little stories or remarks stood out to me, and show a more personal side of China away […]
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Chosen Streets

Chosen Streets

A week ago, I saw a nearby old lane (小湾老街) on Xiaohongshu — but when I wanted to take a look there, I found it was already demolished and turned into some kind of factory. I checked back on Xiaohongshu and saw that indeed, the last posts were from early 2024. There was a feeling […]
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Thirty kilometers out

Thirty kilometers out

When I moved out of Shanghai’s city center, the differences were obvious to me, but now three years later I start to see the similarities again. The area in Shanghai that we live in now — the border of Heqing (合庆) and Tangzhen (唐镇) — is full of non-Shanghainese people. Many come from lower-tier cities in […]
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Ways to harmony

Ways to harmony

In Shanghai, cars, scooters, or bicycles in public are exposed to the impulses of opportunistic advertisers. So while you’re asleep or at work, they may place cards or stickers — fancy designs promoting services ranging from fake diplomas to ladies of not-so-virtuous nature, as well as housing funds. I’ve been annoyed dozens of times by […]
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