Chinese in Hattem

(Originally written for GoEast Mandarin.)

My hometown Hattem has around 11,000 citizens, with on the north the river the Ijssel, and on the south the biggest forest of the Netherlands, the Veluwe, teeming with life and fields thick of heather.

There are two bus stops, with a bus every two hours — but not on the weekends or evenings. There’s no train station, but sometimes there’s a ferry to the other side of the river. The supermarket closes at 20:00, and doesn’t even bother opening on Sundays. Every sixty minutes the church bells ring to mark the passing of the hour. There’s no convenience store or cinema. And to reach my high school, I had to cycle 10 kilometers every day to the nearest big city.

And to me it seems the farthest anyone could get from Shanghai.

Hattem has, though, one Chinese restaurant. Atop brick walls painted white hangs a sign “Kota Radja”, which is a name often used for Chinese or Indonesian restaurants in the Netherlands (Indonesia being a former Dutch-colony).

For a dinner with my parents, we were selecting Cantonese and Sichuanese dishes, made less spicy and sweeter to tailor to Dutch tastebuds. And I asked the waiter if he could speak Mandarin. “Ah, that’s a long time ago! I moved here 30 years ago!”, but he spoke just fine. In Mandarin we spoke about my life in Shanghai, and his life and the journey in the pre-internet era, from the South of China to my hometown. He had left his family behind and started a life in Hattem, a kind of opposite journey of mine. I had never thought about my hometown as a fresh and intimidating place, but it must have been like that to him, 30 years ago. My parents looked on, but couldn’t understand a word of our conversation.

I also spoke Mandarin in Amsterdam, in a store and a restaurant. There, the waiter was less patient with me. “啊?! 你说什么? 你要什么?!!!” “A?! Nǐ shuō shénme? Nǐ yào shénme?!!!” I refused to speak Dutch or English, or point at pictures. I explained to her I’m learning Mandarin and would really like to order in Chinese. Eventually all the dishes ended up on the table.

For 15 years I’ve lived in my hometown and for 5 years I’ve lived in Amsterdam. To talk Mandarin there — especially in my hometown Hattem — means the Chinese people and language have really spread all over the globe. This language now connects me to so many people in China. And now it even connects my past, present and future.

Latest

A summer’s day in autumn

A summer’s day in autumn

Set an alarm to 05:00, take a taxi to the train station, get onto the train, switch in Hangzhou, and get off in Tonglu (桐庐), take another taxi — to arrive 4 hours and 330 kilometers away from home. For a hike. Maybe it’s crazy, but the alternative is to stay home. You’ll have plenty […]
October 12, 2025
Mary in Qibao

Mary in Qibao

We’re in Qibao (七宝古镇) — an old water town swallowed by the city of Shanghai, now turned into a tourist attraction. In the center stands a moon bridge, surrounded by heavily renovated buildings that now house shops selling fridge magnets or bites such as ⁠tangyuan, scallion pancakes, red bean cake, and parts of pork or […]
October 11, 2025
Empty shops

Empty shops

If you squint your eyes, you can still see a busy little street here. The shops on Wangxin Road (王新街店铺) near Gaoqiao (高桥) in Pudong, were built in the late Qing Dynasty but now face an uncertain future. They’re not labeled for demolition (the character 拆 isn’t shown), but there are many tags of landlords […]
October 11, 2025
My favorite places in Shanghai (2025 update)

My favorite places in Shanghai (2025 update)

I saw this message from Curt about how difficult it is to love Shanghai, and there’s some truth in that. Maybe it’s too big a city to love, and I just love some specific locations of Shanghai. Let me have a go. Ye Garden Ye Garden (叶家花园), a ~100-year-old park in Yangpu, hidden behind a […]
October 10, 2025