In Suzhou: Ajax

“14:00 this Sunday?” someone asks in the WeChat group. Our chat is named ‘五人小场群Wǔ rén xiǎo chǎng qún’ (Five people small field group) and holds 36 guys from the neighborhood, including me.

We play football without a schedule, usually weekly. Someone mentions a time, and critical mass (ten or more) either does or doesn’t form. Through WeChat we rent one of the eight football fields nearby and everybody pays 20 RMB (2,50 Euro).

It’s a small pitch and the pace is high. Five versus five, and when the opposing team scores two goals, your team gets replaced by people waiting on the sideline. The score resets to zero-zero. It’s a fair system. A good quintet can stay on the pitch for a while, but eventually they tire out and they concede two goals as well.

The guys are mostly twenty-five to forty years old — short or tall and skinny or tough. All of them are extremely welcome to me. I’m gradually losing my name ‘外国人Wàiguó rén’ (foreigner) and being named by my Chinese name ‘雅普Yǎpǔ’. To be fair, I’m also still learning their names. Some have Chinese names made from characters I don’t even know, six others have English names, three of them are Any, Andy, and Alan.

I thought I could practice my Mandarin with them, but the game is filled with either single word-phrases during play like “Eh!” and “后Hòu!” (behind!) — or we’re catching our breath after conceding two goals.

These guys have been playing football together for around ten years, and at the start the pace is too high for me. Newly-used muscles in my legs cry out. All around me, people move in invisible patterns, and I fail to cover the person behind me. The passes are short and fast. Sometimes my long legs help to intercept the ball, but often they feel clumsy. Tooooo slow.

But I get the hang later, and the first goal I score is a big relief, even though I accidentally tapped it in. After that I get a chance for open goal —I’m scared to miss — but in it goes too. But my third goal is on full merit.

Another difficulty during play is our clothes. Teams are assembled and reassembled every time the score reaches two, and colors of team-members don’t correspond. Some wear red or orange shirts from Chinese clubs I don’t know, two others wear shirts from the Spanish national eleven, and others just wear sports clothing. Sometimes they are on your side, sometimes they’re not.

Myself, I’m wearing the red-and-white from Ajax Amsterdam. Amsterdam is a long way from Suzhou and Shanghai, but football is universal and I’m delighted to share it with the locals, because it makes me feel a local too.

Latest

A summer’s day in autumn

A summer’s day in autumn

Set an alarm to 05:00, take a taxi to the train station, get onto the train, switch in Hangzhou, and get off in Tonglu (桐庐), take another taxi — to arrive 4 hours and 330 kilometers away from home. For a hike. Maybe it’s crazy, but the alternative is to stay home. You’ll have plenty […]
October 12, 2025
Mary in Qibao

Mary in Qibao

We’re in Qibao (七宝古镇) — an old water town swallowed by the city of Shanghai, now turned into a tourist attraction. In the center stands a moon bridge, surrounded by heavily renovated buildings that now house shops selling fridge magnets or bites such as ⁠tangyuan, scallion pancakes, red bean cake, and parts of pork or […]
October 11, 2025
Empty shops

Empty shops

If you squint your eyes, you can still see a busy little street here. The shops on Wangxin Road (王新街店铺) near Gaoqiao (高桥) in Pudong, were built in the late Qing Dynasty but now face an uncertain future. They’re not labeled for demolition (the character 拆 isn’t shown), but there are many tags of landlords […]
October 11, 2025
My favorite places in Shanghai (2025 update)

My favorite places in Shanghai (2025 update)

I saw this message from Curt about how difficult it is to love Shanghai, and there’s some truth in that. Maybe it’s too big a city to love, and I just love some specific locations of Shanghai. Let me have a go. Ye Garden Ye Garden (叶家花园), a ~100-year-old park in Yangpu, hidden behind a […]
October 10, 2025